FPV Tricopter Project Coming Soon (May/June 2010)
The Tricopter has been around since the first helicopters started flying
in the late 1940's and recently have become popular among RC Aerial
Photography and FPV pilots.
In the past they where extremely complicated machines but with new cheaper and
better gyros, computer RC radios, lighter weight lipo batteries and powerful brushless motors
they are much more user friendly.
They are easier to fly then a standard collective pitch RC heli and
just
a little harder then a beginner co-ax.
A Tricopter can handle the same payload as a 500 class heli but with out the expense or risk to ones self or others. Repairs can be as cheap as a price of a Slow Flier prop which this and all the above will make a great AP/FPV RC helicopter.
Visit New store Item 6061 Tricopter
It's time for me to build a Tricopter after a year of planning and reading tons of info on the net I'm ready to give it a go. My Tricopters frame will be 6061 T6 and 5052 U-channel aluminum for the booms. From what I gathered most are built from wood but I want a strong reliable Tricopter and my frame is 25 grams lighter then wood ones (373 grams vs. 400 grams) so it makes the most since to use aluminum....besides how many helicopters are made of wood....not many, if any at all. I considered using Carbon Fiber but it's not as forgivable as aluminum and also it tends to crack/splinter when stressed from a crash making it harder to repair where aluminum can just be straightened if bent from a crash. This makes it a good choice for RC cause sooner or later it will crash.....Read up on Signguy's "Build a Tricopter" thread at
RCgroups.com The first 5 pages have the most needed info.
My set up for FPV...so far as changes might happen.
1 FPVpilot's 6061 T6 Tricopter aluminum frame.
1 3S 5000mah Turnigy Lipo (11x4.8 prop) or 2650mah with no data logger or OSD/10x3.8 prop.
3 E-Flite Park 480 910KV Outrunners (a bit too much power)
3 Castle Creations Phoenix 25 ESC
4 HK-401b gyros (HobbyKing.com)
1 Futaba 9654 servo
3 11x4.8 APC Slow Flier Prop or 10x3.8 SF with lighter payloads
1 SN-555 Hi Res FPV color camera.(HobbyWireless.com)
1 900MHz 500mw Video TX (HobbyWireless.com)
1 3S 460mah Rhino Lipo (video system power (25-30min.)
1 AVM-100TL Anti-Vibe tiling Camera mount (From Here)
1 Eagle Tree eLogger with Standard OSD. not used with 2650mah lipo
Weight No battery and FPV basic system (cam, TX, tilt). 32.oz
Weight with 5000mah pack and complete FPV system 50oz/1490grams
Weight with 2650mah pack and basic FPV system. 45.6oz/1250grams
Data:
fully loaded 11x4.8 prop: Amps 20-22/ Watts max 240
Basic set up 10x3.8 prop: Amps 16-18/ Watts max 210
Update. I tried the DT-750 from Hobby King and they had roughly the same power as the Park 480's using the same props The Tricopter was a little more stable with the lower KV motors but during a test flight one of the motors came apart at the Black base causing a sudden crash. Seems the allens that hold it together came loose or where never tighten at the factory. The data results show at full load they also pulled more amps then the 480s at 26 max amps. Another issue is the shaft which is easily bent if crashed and poor reviews on the net about bearing/shaft issues. Because of this I won't be using these even though they are good, decent motors. I would recommend a 700KV to 950KV brushless outrunner that is rated at 25amps/250 watts with a 4mm shaft using standard 4mm prop adapters like what the E-flite Park 480's and other higher end motors come with. Next I'm testing the RCtimers 750KV motors. The specs and reviews look good but almost double the price of the DT-750.
Page Under Construction My Tricopters first true maiden flight weighing in at 49oz fully loaded with large payload.
Here are a couple diagrams showing the wiring, and receiver wiring. This seems to be a problem for some. The main wire harness should be made to fit your tricopter. You may want to place your speed controls at the motor, or on the arms, or under the center frame. All of these will require different lengths for the main harness. Sharpen up the soldering skills. A bad joint here WILL crash your copter, and its camera payload. The deans plug " switch" is not totally necessary. It will allow the gyros to arm first, not allowing the speed controls to go into programming mode. It is also a safety item, but, can be thought of a a point of failure too. I don't use one now, but its up to you. Use a BEC, or a simple 7805 voltage regulator. It is cheap insurance against speed control BEC failure. Signguy...
Tricopters use heli swash plate 120 radio settings
Gyros must be in parallel with boom arms except the yaw gyro which is standard like a CP heli.
There's not much to a Tricopter as it's pretty simple with the idenical set up goes for three motors. First I put together the 6061 Tricopters top and bottom plates with a single centered spacer, nut and bolt. This keeps the frame together and properly spaced as the next step is to attach the booms.
The booms come with the bushing already install but the inner sleeve most be installed.
Then I place the booms between the two main frames and run the bolts through to secure the booms.
The booms are completely isolating the vibrations from the motors. Also give a little crash or bump resistance. One ofthe bolts can be removed and the boom arm swung back towards the rear allowing for easier transporting.
With the booms attached the next step was to mount the 480 outrunner motors.
The ESC is mounted on the aluminum booms with no velcro/tape allowing the heat from the ESC to be transferred to the boom.
Taller Landing gear allows more clearance for under slung camera mounts.
Simple metal Yaw mount can survive most crashes and hard landings. Comes pre-installed. If it becomes bent it can be re-straighten.
Angled front extended landing gear help with orientation.
With the Frame, booms, ESC and motors installed next it was for the electronics. The Gyros can be placed any where just keep in mind the CG for later. I found the best place was where Signguy had placed his at the rear. It's important to keep the 3 boom gyros parallel with the 120 degree arms. Then the forth gyro is used like a standard yaw gyro and
it should be used as a normal heli would have it set up. All gyros are hooked together using servo Y connectors and placed at the same gain channel for adjustment. My Radio gyro gains are set to 21%. Any higher and my Tricopter becomes Twitchy and any lower and it becomes slow responding. Expect to spend a good day getting the gains set just right along with trimming. I also use lots of expo on Pitch/Elev. at center stick which gives a little more movement with the stick allowing a stable feel.
More Info Coming Soon
AVM-100GP